Sleeping in no-man’s land

INTO LITTLE ANGOLA. The crossing into Cabinda entails only moderate hassle. Via a translator, the Portuguese-speaking Angolan immigration officer insists on our writing out the itinerary of our entire trip, which is difficult if you’ve been living out of a suitcase for 18 months.

After the roads we’ve been down lately, Cabinda comes as a shock: motorways of perfect asphalt, complete with guardrails in places, a product of Angola’s oil boom. Once known as the Portuguese Congo, the Angolan province of Cabinda is an exclave, separate from the main part of the country, whose oil wells are a major revenue earner for Angola. The government has long been keen to keep it Angolan despite a separatist movement with a government-in-exile in Paris. More……..

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